Thursday, 17 September 2015

antics in canada: squads, colonialism and rug pushers

Wreck Beach on Thursday night
Tuesday was ‘Imagine Day’ starting at 8.30am…I’m in a ‘squad’ (it felt hilarious running around saying ‘where’s my squad’) which is called Dunbar Street for some reason. About half the people were British, which is a fairly solid representation of our presence here on exchange. Lads abound, and rest assured they’re protecting the reputation of the English abroad.

After some awkward get-to-know-you activities (I went red and chose ‘bookworm’ as the adjective to describe myself before I remembered that’s not an adjective) our squad leader gave us a campus tour. He walked at the back of the group most of the time so we didn’t really know where we were going, and didn’t take us to very many places. In the library we were standing around for about 15 minutes without anything going on, and nobody knew why were hovering like eejits. Several times he admitted he wasn’t sure what he was talking about and asked us if we knew the answers.

Then we had to sit through talks which lasted about 3 hours informing us of things we could easily find out online. It was really good that they had a decent section on mental wellbeing though. Then there was free lunch which wasn’t too shabby, then back in for more coma-inducing talks.

Afterwards Ellen and I checked out the club fair. I signed up for many things as per (we’ll see which ones I actually stick with.) The women’s club looks good – they have a safe space in the AMS Nest (Alma Mater Society – like a Student Union building) where you can go for tea and a chat, but they also organise things like self-defense classes and protests. It was ironic that they were two desks down from the pro-lifers with their plastic models of foetuses in wombs.

The Democrats were also there collecting signatures against Bill C-51, which is an ‘anti-terror’ bill recently passed which infringes massively on individual freedoms. There’s a significant body of resistance to Harper’s right-wing government, which makes me happy. I’m hoping to get more involved in and aware of Canadian politics whilst here.

I also want to join the Agape club who go downtown and provide company and food etc. for homeless people. Downtown Eastside has been dubbed ‘Canada’s poorest postal code’, with huge levels of homelessness, drug abuse, and horribly high levels of missing and murdered Aboriginal women. So, they need all the practical, material help that can be offered.

On the other hand I’m going to join the tea society!

Lessons started on Tuesday with Spanish 101 at 9am. I remembered how much I dislike learning languages in a classroom and felt a bit deflated afterwards. It’s all good though because I’ve decided to take Gender and Indigeneity in Canada instead – may as well take interesting topics which are unique to this place.

My next class was Indigenous Literature and I love it. It’s hard-going but our professor is fantastic. I didn’t realise UBC – and all of Vancouver – is built on unceded Musqueam territory. The huge international airport where you’re greeted by a totem pole was plonked right next to the reserve, which is a ridiculously small area of land. UBC campus used to be a huge dense forest, and many of the beaches here used to provide a large part of the diet – shellfish – for the Musqueam people before they were cleared and topped with sand to make them picturesque. The trampling of Indigenous peoples’ rights is ongoing here and the more I learn the more my skin crawls. The Indian Act still exists – an Act on which South African Apartheid was partly modelled. As my teacher said, ‘postcolonialism is not what we are studying here, because this is still very much a colonial society.’ I can tell that my classes are going to be hard-hitting, but I really feel that it’s worth going through the anger so I can learn more about the experiences of people who do not have my social privilege.

After this was my Modernism class. Our professor is great – very enthusiastic. He’s an energetic skinny guy of about 60 who always wears very neat double-breasted suits and writes on the blackboard in a way I can only describe as Mr. Bean-ish. He told us he has hypergraphia to such an extent that he’s known by the Vancouver Police Department, after writing at a traffic light for so long that a tonne of traffic was backed up behind him after the light went green. He encourages us all to write as much and as often as we can, and to not even worry about how good a first draft is – the skill is in the editing, he says. I think that Modernism is also going to be challenging, but not in an emotionally raw way like my other modules – it’s a fourth year literature class so there’ll be lots of high-powered analysis going on, which I’m rather happy to get my teeth stuck into.

My last class on a Wednesday is Intersectional Approaches to Thinking Gender. It’s a three hour class which runs until 9pm which is tricky. I’m excited about it though – our teacher said she wants us to get involved not only through academia but through activism, because academia alone does little to change immediate material circumstances. She encouraged us to follow the news and said we’re at a very interesting, crucial time in history, a time at which the world could move in any of a multitude of directions. She’s going to keep us posted on active ways to live our politics.

That night I felt the need to blow off steam and luckily there were plans to head to the pub. There’s an Irish pub on campus which is really nice. It’s got a bit of a cosy feel and all the English is subtitled in Irish. It’s strange getting table service for ordering drinks though, I think I prefer lounging at the bar as it’s more sociable – though you can obviously do that too. They also serve a schooner here which is smaller than a pint (although I think pint glasses are still available). 

Lo and behold we met a load more English people. I irritated someone when I told them I had no interest in going to a party dressed as a Mexican.

Thursday night we went to Wreck Beach, which is just off campus. We arrived just as the sun had gone down, and all around the bay were mountains which were silhouetted against this fierce orange afterglow thrown upwards by the sun. It was stunning. We climbed the billion steps back up through the forest onto campus, to be greeted by a police officer asking if we’d seen anyone passed out. We said no, he asked more people, and then more police cars and a couple of fire engines pulled up.

We went across the road and ogled for a little bit. A guy in a fedora who seemed to be on shrooms was standing near us with his partner and kid. He filmed the fire engines and was like ‘Here I am with a group of the finest women in Vancouver’ then turned to us and said ‘All that beauty, what ya gonna do?’ After this he handed me a business card and said ‘You ever need a rug, give me a call’ (the card advertised a public relations business). He stood in front of us and said ‘give me your colours, I need your room colours, I’m thinking teal and blue…’ Then the three of them went off in a taxi. I was told later this is standard behaviour in Vancouver.

In the meantime the firefighters were all congregating around the top of the steps as people came up off the beach. Two ambulances pulled up and as we started to think something really horrible might have happened, the results of which we didn’t want to see, we left - and haven’t heard anything since about what happened down there.

Gastown
Friday night we explored Gastown, which is a swanky neighbourhood not unlike Shoreditch. We got an amazing curry there (I swear the curries here are better than in England) then went for a drink at Bambudda, which does Chinese food and amazing cocktails. I had the Corpse Raiser #2 which was delicious and tequila-y. After this we went along to a club which was fun but a bit dead. It was in Downtown Eastside and we saw full-on the shocking levels of homelessness in this city. I hope Agape starts up soon, if not I’m going to volunteer for a local organisation instead.

Football friends
Saturday we went to the homecoming football game. I had absolutely no idea what was going on in terms of the actual game but the hotdogs were tasty and there was a brass band and the atmosphere was fun.

Saturday Night Lights!
On Sunday we went to Richmond Night Market, which is apparently one of the largest Chinese markets in North America. It’s mainly Asian food stalls but they had a few anomalies like a deep-fried Mars Bar van. I always find those kind of places a bit discombobulating with all the fluorescent lights and strange karaoke tunes and loud adverts booming out on loop. We stuffed ourselves pretty well. I had some kind of Indian-Chinese fusion salmon wrap and salt & pepper calamari and we shared some delicious Japanese crispy buns on sticks. Then I bought ten pairs of socks. The madness of life. 

Salmon thing
 Watch this space for more political angst and a trip to Banff...


Richmond Night Market

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